Henley on Todd

What do you do if you live in the desert where the river rarely runs but you want to raise money for the community? You have a charity boat race...of course!

I attended the 55th Henley on Todd, in Alice Springs, with a few thousand other townsfolk and tourists. There were 'boat races' of all sorts from single person kayaks, canoes, rowing boats, small sailing boats up the the combative finale between the Vikings, the Navy and the Pirates.

 The whole event had the atmosphere of a family sports day. Anyone could take part in the races with all classes of 'water' conveyance. 

The battle was wet, floury, dusty, smelly and very noisy.

The winners of the battle, decided by crowd enthusiasm, were The Navy

Blooming Desert

It is winter (well so called, winter) in the centre. But to a southerner, it seems warm.  Well, there were a few sub zero mornings but the days have been mild,  although the locals bedeck themselves with all the accoutrements of winter....beanies, scarves, coats, jumpers, leggings.... The dessert, however, clearly believes it is spring and following the rains earlier in the year, it is an absolute garden.

Smack Bang in the Centre again.

I did the big drive from Melbourne to Alice Springs. It took me four days of varying length with the average being about seven hours.

But it's easy driving, the Stuart Highway is great and hardly any interruptions from crossroads or towns. The scenery is epic and the sky brilliant.

It was cold and green in Victoria

Misty and mysterious, early in the morning, outside Port Augusta

Stately and mature desert oaks

One of the salt lakes with water and glistening salt crystals at the edge.

Great road and wonderful sky in front, and behind.

Evidence of opal seeking ant men in Coober Pedy

Another early start from Coober Pedy

The vast outback is very bright and very red

The flow has me on the go!

There is a popular saying, that if you see the Todd River in Alice Springs flow three times you will never leave. Well it has flowed twice during my current visit so lucky I'm heading home.

For those who may be unfamiliar with the nature of australian outback rivers, they are mostly dry, flowing only a few times a year. The sandy river beds, edged by magnificent ghost gums and grasses look so welcoming, many a traveller has fallen for the temptation to camp there. The danger is, that the rivers are prone to flash floods and it may be from a rain event many kilometres upstream.  The latest flow in the Todd surprised locals as there had been no rain in Alice Springs before it occurred.

Because the Todd River is usually dry, a local service club runs an annual 'boat' race in Alice Springs called the Henley on Todd, featuring bottomless boats powered by runners.

Water in the Todd is such a novelty, that people go out of their way to have a look.

Some, otherwise very sensible people, allow their small children and dogs to go crazy in the water. 

Roads may be closed

But some people will just not take no for an answer.

I do feel very fortunate to have seen this rather rare phenomenon of the outback. It was, however, enough to have me packing my bags and heading south. From the blue skied outback to cold, wintery Melbourne.

Don't go far, Dear Reader, I am off to the United States in a few days. I know this is a blog about my travels around Australia, but I may have the time and inclination to write the odd post from the other side of the ditch.  Then, I am on a road trip up the centre of Australia, back to Alice Springs for another extended visit. Please do come along and tell your friends!

Alice stinks!

There is a heady, gaseous odour throughout Alice Springs at the moment. One could be forgiven for calling in a tradie to check one's appliances or for blaming last night's boiled cabbage. The smell was even a topic for talkback radio last week. However, there is no need for concern it is just the acacia cambagei. This tree endemic of Australia is found in semiarid areas throughout various states. It is commonly know as the gidgee, stinking wattle, or stinking gidgee.  In the dry, red soil areas such as those around Alice Springs it occurs naturally along waterways and in depressions in the soil or, as in this example, as a street planting.

It may be stinky, but it's pretty with typical wattle foliage and flowers.

On the street near the Alice Springs library.

Alice is electric

Here's something I haven't seen before, electrical outlets on all the power poles in the Todd Mall in the middle of Alice Springs. They are utilised by the stall holders at the fortnightly market but are available to all.

To gallery or not to gallery?

Todd Mall is the pedestrian heart of Alice Springs. It sports a range of shops and many galleries selling indigenous art. We have, thank goodness, moved on from the days of tea towels with stolen indigenous art on them.  But I have heard so many stories about the artists being exploited by galleries, I am reluctant to go into any of them...even if they have signs purporting to support community arts and one that sells 'proper indigenous art'.
















I do feel comfortable in suggesting a few,  of what I consider, 'must support' shops in the mall.

Red Kangaroo has an extensive selection of Australian books and literature of all genres. They also have an online shop with an ever-changing catalogue at: Red Kangaroo Books

Ininti gallery and gift shop sports all kinds of art, clothing, bags, jewellery, made by indigenous people from all over the globe. Siri Omberg, the owner is an accomplished jeweller and there are some of her lovely pieces in her shop. Siri also has a studio only five minutes walk from the town centre. Check out this link on Red Hot Arts.

Lovely Lesley from Leaping Lizards makes a visit to her shop almost mandatory. She is a delightful,

chatty and helpful person. Her gallery and shop are full of local arts and crafts with something

to suit most taste and pockets. Allow plenty of time to browse and chat. 

Not pictured here, are the indigenous women who sit under the trees and on the grass outside the Flynn Church and old hospital with their canvasses laid out in front of them. They are there most days, and definitely on market days and weekends. I really admire their determination. I happily bought one of these, probably a rather cliched bush tucker painting, because I knew my money was going straight to the source.

Olive Pink - a garden and woman

The Olive Pink Botanic Garden is worth a visit (apart from the cafe lauded in a previous post). There are flat walks, art installations and of course the walk up the hill. All are detailed in the guide booklet which contains photos and notes about the plants which correspond to markers along the walks.

The Hill Walk is a goat track but if I managed it, then it can't be that bad.

Stairway to heaven?

There are lovely views to be enjoyed along the way and at the very top.

 Going up is hard work, but I find coming down more daunting when one suffers from Old Lady Disease...scared I'll fall and break something!

I DID NOT jump like this, I took a far more demure approach!

Entrance to the Wattle Walk

The Mallee Walk

There is art in the park. Check out the emu's beak.

Remember to look down...

..and up. You never know what you will find!

Olive Pink Gardens are named after an early character who evoked contradictory opinions. An unconventional anthropologist Miss Pink (1884 - 1975)  has been described variously as colourful, unforgettable and indomitable.  The unconventional label was probably affixed because she took a non-mainstream stance in regard to indigenous people. She championed their cause and fought for a secular sanctuary for the Walpiri people in the Tanami Desert. She was once charged with contempt of court for interrupting proceedings because she didn't think tribal law was being taken into account. She refused to pay the fine and was facing a custodial sentence...but the head goaler paid the fine because he didn't want her causing trouble in his jail!

Miss Pink was also a botanical artist and developed an abiding interest in local flora, promoting the cultivation of native species. She lobbied successfully to have the gardens established in 1956 and they were opened to the public in 1985.

Miss Pink was influenced by the indomitable Daisy Bates, and later, resided with and had a close friendship with Annie Meyers.